Special Section:
DINING IN THE DELTA
Restaurants lend character to region
Unique favorites give Delta residents much to be proud of
By AMY TAYLOR
DBJ Contributing Writer
Dining in the Delta means much more than just nourishment for the body—it is an event to be experienced by the mind and soul, as well. It is perhaps the very essence of this flavorful area, where many restaurants have become historical landmarks, unrivaled anywhere in the world. Dwelling in the midst of an abundance of culinary creativity, Deltans have developed a most discriminating palate and relish each dining experience . Our savory journey begins in the Northern Delta, just south of Memphis, and parallels the River southward, where we visit old favorites and other eating establishments brand new on the cuisine scene.
In the changing face of Tunica County, The Blue and White Restaurant remains a constant. Since 1937, locals and Highway 61 travelers have followed the beckoning strobe light arrow atop the building of its namesake colors. Inside, loyal patrons enjoy quality down-home, southern cooking for which the Blue & White has always been famous. Owners Steven Barbieri and Joe Weiss are committed to serving the finest food in the Delta. Although they have recently modernized the kitchen and made a few aesthetic changes, Joe comments, “The recipes and the cooks have remained the same—some of the cooks have been here for 39 years. We want to keep that winning combination.”
Nearby in the hamlet of Hollywood, the historic Hollywood Café continues to draw crowds to this turn-of-the-century building which once served as an old farm commissary. Perhaps most famous for its mention in the lyrics of the popular blues song, “Walkin’ in Memphis”, the Hollywood Café is also well known for fried dill pickles and fried green tomatoes, the hub cap burger, juicy steaks, and southern fried catfish. Muriel no longer ‘plays the piano every Friday at the Hollywood’, but the seasoned decor and the delicious entrees team together for an unforgettable dining experience.
Relatively new on the flat Delta landscape are the many restaurants associated with the thriving casino industry in Tunica County. Diners will have little trouble satisfying their appetites with over 50 specialty restaurants in the area, from casual to elegant dining, serving diverse selections, from steaks to barbeque to seafood. Farradday’s, located inside The Isle of Capri at Lula, is a fine example of one of the newer dining establishments in the Delta. Guests experience delightful meals inspired by the worldly travels of a man named Farradday, whose vision for his restaurant was to surround himself with his favorite tastes from his many memorable travels. Whether it’s South Pacific Coconut Shrimp or the finest aged beef from his Iowa roots, or one of Farradday’s luscious desserts, such as New York Cheese Cake, Bourbon Street Pecan Pie, or his most popular dessert “Fried Strawberries,” the extensive menu offers items to suit any dining preference. According to manager Penny Franklin, “Every Sunday through Thursday, we’re now serving an ‘Early Bird’ special from 5 to 7 p.m., when you can enjoy salad, one of our popular meat dishes, vegetables, dessert, and a glass of wine for only $14.95.” Early birds or not, patrons who share in Farradday’s vision will always enjoy an adventure in dining.
Traveling down Highway 61, Clarksdale is also home to a vast sampling of fine restaurants. One of the oldest eating establishments in the Delta, Abe’s Bar-B-Q has been serving genuine pit barbeque since 1924. Located at the crossroads of Highways 49 and 61, this is where legend has it that Delta Blues King Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil, and Abe’s founder Mr. Abraham Davis surrendered his soul to God, and his family business still prospers after 80 years. In addition to fine barbeque, Abe’s is also well known for its juicy chili cheeseburgers and an assortment of sandwiches. Abe’s serves lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday and lunch on Sundays.
For over 45 years, The Ranchero has been a favorite of Clarksdale residents and of blues tourists who travel to the Delta from all over the world. Owner Chris Card comments, “Our barbeque ribs are probably our most popular items, since we make our own sauce, but we also serve lots of prime rib, chicken, and seafood gumbo. We offer an All-U-Can-Eat Catfish buffet each Friday night, but be sure to save room for one of our homemade cheesecakes or Strawberry Pies!” The Ranchero also offers an extensive catering service for cocktail parties, banquets, and receptions.
Madidi in downtown Clarksdale is acclaimed as one of the Delta’s premiere choices for fine dining. Owned by Clarksdale attorney and businessman Bill Luckett and renowned actor Morgan Freeman, Madidi chef Lee Craven lends French techniques to his southern-inspired dishes. With unique dishes ranging from Rack of Lamb to Hybrid Bass, an exquisite dining experience always awaits at Madidi, where elegance meets the very soul of the blues-steeped Mississippi Delta.
In the heart of Merigold, Crawdad’s rustic ambience has welcomed customers since 1984. Offering much more than just what the name suggests, Crawdad’s is well known for its outstanding selection of appetizers, steaks, seafood, cajun/creole cuisine, and, of course, crawfish when in season. Boasting an exquisite, yet relaxed atmosphere, Crawdad’s owner Andrew Westerfield promises “the finest in food, service, and hospitality—it’s a place where you want to be with your friends.”
Just down the road in Cleveland, discover a veritable smorgasbord of fine restaurants. KC’s, a Four-Star restaurant located on Highway 61, offers unique “modern American cuisine,” implementing Asian and French techniques by chefs Don and Wally Joe. With an extensive wine list of over 500 selections, dining at KC’s makes every occasion memorable.
“Absolutely fun, absolutely delicious, absolutely A La Carte!” is the description offered by Charlotte Skelton, owner of downtown Cleveland’s A La Carte Alley. The restaurant started in Charlotte’s home as a small gift basket/catering business 14 years ago. It soon grew into a popular restaurant and gift shop, featuring gourmet foods and decorative accessories. For summer, fresh new items have been added to the menu, such as the spicy Cuban Sandwich, the Pick-Up-Stick Salad with an oriental flair, Black-eyed Pea & Artichoke Dip, and Shrimp Dip. Serving lunch daily, A La Carte is a favorite spot for dining and shopping.
Cleveland is also home to The Warehouse, where only the charming antique gallery encompassing the dining area rivals the delectable dishes. Diners feast on fabulous fresh salads—‘The South Texan’ is a favorite—and an inviting array of sandwiches, such as ‘The Spicy Bird’, complemented with specialty breads, homemade desserts, and refreshing, crushed iced tea. Owner Scott Speakes attributes The Warehouse’s success to “the quality of food, service, and absolutely that big city atmosphere—the hustle and bustle of the open kitchen, and the music.”
From Cleveland, head west toward the River to the end of Highway 8, just beneath the levee. This is the location of Leo’s Market, an unpretentious, cinder block gas station, which serves as the rustic facade of one of the finest newer restaurants around. Owner Leo Magee, a native of Gunnison who resides in Rosedale, has been in the restaurant business for years, and opened Leo’s about 2 years ago. Open for lunch and dinner, with the exception of Monday night, Leo’s menu features an assortment of pastas, delicious steaks, and grilled catfish, served with a special recipe crawfish sauce. There’s a seafood buffet each Thursday evening, and Leo’s also offers weekend specials, such as salmon, rack of lamb, redfish, or crawfish, when in season. The daily lunch buffet features choice, beloved southern cooking. Leo’s loyal patrons also enjoy a taste of live, authentic Delta blues each Thursday and Saturday night.
The small town of Leland is home to a large assortment of premiere restaurants. Just outside the city, The Bourbon Mall—the community of Bourbon is actually on the map—has established quite a reputation for fine steaks, seafood, and pasta, and entertainment. An old general store built in the 1930’s, The Bourbon Mall is now open seven nights a week, has recently expanded their wine list, and offers limousine service to and from the restaurant. Limousine customers can choose from one of their three stretch limos, the Excursion limo, or the brand new Hummer limo. On his delicious food and restaurant philosophy, owner Mark Azlin comments, “I think it’s important to consistently provide customers a top-quality meal—consistency is the key.”
For well over half a century, Lillo’s Restaurant in Leland has maintained their reputation for the finest in Italian dishes. Still family owned and operated, owner Wesley Keen says, “Through the years, we’ve continued to serve delicious, affordable food in a family atmosphere.” Best known for dishes, such as Eggplant Parmesan, Shrimp Supreme, and homemade pizzas “like you can’t get anywhere else,” Lillo’s has recently revived the original “Labella Floating Hamburger,” derived from an old family recipe. With live entertainment Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursday evenings, Lillo’s remains a preferred dining destination.
The Leland area also boasts of other excellent restaurants, such as Cicero’s, located in neighboring Stoneville. Steaks, seafood, and catfish, prepared thirteen different ways, highlight Cicero’s extensive menu. “We’ve added several new salads for summer—like the Portabello Salad and the Fried Crawfish Salad; and the Fried Chicken Salad is always a favorite. We are also serving fresh garden vegetables with our daily lunch,” says owner Carl Moore. Cicero’s is open for lunch Monday through Friday, and for dinner Monday through Saturday evenings.
The Port City of Greenville is peppered with a variety of restaurants, offering Delta diners an even broader selection. Since 1968, How Joy Restaurant has not just provided the very best in Cantonese food, but the How Joy Steak, grilled with a special sauce with a hint of an oriental flavor, prevails as a favorite entrée. In addition to the popular Friday night and Sunday lunch buffets, How Joy is also staying in tune with the latest dietary trends, offering The Diet Center menu. Karoake is on the menu on Saturdays, and the How Joy’s extensive bar is most famous for its Margaritas, frozen or on-the-rocks.
Anna Casey’s has been a favorite on the Greenville restaurant scene for over 15 years. Specializing in all cuts of open-flame grilled steaks and fresh seafood, owner Jennifer Arnold attributes their popularity to “personal service and a promise of quality.” She says, “Some of our waitresses have been here since the beginning, and personally know their customers and how to do their job well.” Anna Casey’s seafood specialty is ‘The Delta Two-Step’, comprised of 2 broiled catfish filets, stuffed with crabmeat, and topped with a crab sauce. Homemade steak sauce, salad dressings from scratch, fried onion blossoms and mushroom appetizers accent the delicious entrees.
The Shelton House on Washington Avenue is a favorite Delta lunch destination Monday through Saturday. With a seasonally evolving menu, guests may choose from 14 different salads, homemade quiches and casseroles, and decadent desserts. The restaurant, a home originally built in 1912 by Walter Lee Shelton, has three separate dining rooms to accommodate small or large groups for luncheons or receptions. “The house is the main attraction, and the food is the supporting cast” is owner Patrick Dunigan’s description of this popular lunch locale.
Just over the levee, Fergie’s Restaurant rests at the side of its namesake, Lake Ferguson. Manager Damian Madary comments, “Fergie’s offers the best view of the lake, and has the best Fried Catfish in town!” Fergie’s also serves a daily buffet, with a wide variety of casseroles, meats, fresh vegetables, a complete salad bar and luscious desserts; and a spectacular seafood buffet highlights Friday evenings. The scenic lake view and fine food are a winning match, making Fergie’s a top choice in the Delta since opening in the mid-1990’s.
For homemade Italian delicacies in an authentic, romantic Italian atmosphere, Fermo’s on Highway 82 has served Greenville and the surrounding area for over 16 years. Owner Bob Portwood comments on the secret of the restaurant’s long success, “Our emphasis is on service—always.” In addition to homemade pastas, Fermo’s specialties include Fried Catfish over Angel Hair pasta, topped with a Crawfish Alfredo sauce, and Certified Angus Ribeyes complemented with homemade spaghetti.
Near the levee on Nelson Street, Doe’s Eat Place has been a favorite dining destination for over six decades. Entering through the kitchen of the humble building, loyal patrons are greeted by owner, operator, and chef Doe Signa, Jr., whose culinary expertise is unmatched. World renowned for its flame-grilled, cooked-to-perfection, mammoth-but-succulent steaks, Doe’s also features delicious shrimp, fried or broiled, and, of course, homemade hot tamales, of which they have literally served millions since 1942. Deltans have always known that there’s simply no other restaurant on earth like Doe’s—an opinion also shared by people from all over the country. Doe attributes their success to “just keeping things simple and perfecting the items we cook.”
An Indianola landmark for over 35 years, Peasoup’s Lott-a-Freeze was one of the original premier drive-in restaurants in the Delta. Emmett “Peasoup” Lott, nicknamed by legendary Indianola High School football coach Joe Green, opened his restaurant as a small drive-in with six tables for inside dining. His son Thomas now owns and operates “Peasoup’s,” which moved to its new location on Highway 82 West about 4 years ago and now seats forty. Whether dining in or taking out, some of the most ordered items include fried shrimp, fish, or oyster baskets, homemade chicken salad, floating hamburgers, homemade onion rings, and ice cream Sundaes. Proclaimed as ‘the Biggest Little Restaurant in the Delta’, Thomas comments on the secret of their longevity, “We just continue to do it all by hand, the same way we’ve always done it. We’ve always been family-owned and operated, and we take care to personally watch every order that’s placed.”
The Crown In Town is a popular spot for lunch, located in the heart of downtown Indianola. The restaurant has its 1976 roots out “in the country” of Sunflower County, where it originally began as a tearoom inside The Antique Mall, a former English antique gallery. In the beginning, the only entrée served was “Catfish Allison”, which remains their signature dish even today. Owner Evelyn Roughton moved the restaurant “into town” in 1997, where a wide variety of delicious regional delicacies, as well as English-inspired delights, are served with piping hot homemade breads and desserts. According to manager Amy Hawkins, “The English pub-style charm, appetizers before lunch—these are just a few of the special touches that make The Crown In Town more than just a restaurant.” In addition to lunch, The Crown In Town is available for afternoon teas, bridal and baby showers, and bridge parties. The restaurant also houses a gourmet gift shop, where items from their sister mail order company, A Taste of Gourmet, may be sampled and purchased.
In the eastern Delta, many fine, historic dining establishments abound. On the brick streets of downtown Greenwood in 1933, Italian immigrants Charles and Marie Lusco opened a small grocery store that soon became known for its fresh fish, quality steaks, and homemade wine served in the privacy of curtained booths. Today, a fourth generation of Luscos still serves the finest in Italian foods, steaks, and their specialty seafood, Pompano. The calling card of Lusco’s remains the personal service and the same curtained booths, offering privacy to diners in small or large groups.
Giardina’s is another landmark restaurant in Greenwood. In 1936, it began as a drive-in business on Park Avenue, serving sandwiches and other take-out items. As its popularity grew, Giardina’s evolved into a full-service restaurant, offering delicious entrees, including fine steaks and fresh seafood. When the new chic hotel, The Alluvian, opened in 2003, Giardina’s moved to its present location, inside the hotel on Howard Street. Like Lusco’s, Giardina’s fabulous fare can be enjoyed in the privacy of curtained dining rooms. It would be remiss not to the mention the chief cook for 47 years, Mr. Johnny Bell, who began working at Giardina’s during the drive-in era, and continued until his recent retirement. Mr. Bell still maintains a close relationship with the Giardina family, and has always been an important factor in the restaurant’s successful equation.
Downtown Greenwood is also home to The Crystal Grill, family-owned and operated since the 1940’s by the Ballas family. An established dining tradition, generations of Deltans have brought their families and friends for a generous sampling of items from one of the largest menus around, offering delicious food at reasonable prices. The only thing that could make this dining experience any tastier is to complete the meal with their signature dessert, the mile-high-pie, available in chocolate or coconut and topped with a mountainous meringue.
Possibly no other place on earth compares to this region’s offerings of creative cuisine. Mississippi Delta eating establishments have been featured in our country’s most notable magazines and newspapers, on national television, and even in famous songs. They have enhanced the richness of this area by perfecting the art of fine dining. Each with its own unique character and personality, Delta restaurants have inscribed indelible signatures on an ever-evolving restaurant industry, and continue to withstand the tastes and tests of time. DBJ
