The Delta: the very word evokes an emotional
response from most people. Stretching from Memphis to
Yazoo City—or Vicksburg, depending on your definition—the
Delta is deceptively rich in heritage and history.
While the blues, cotton and catfish are perhaps the biggest
trademarks of Delta living, each town has its own nuances.
Many life times could be spent investigating the wonders
of the Delta. But for those home folks pressed to introduce
out-of-town associates and friends to the Delta, we’ve
selected some highlights to help narrow down the tourism
options. Of course, many have other favorite stops, too.
So combine those personal picks with these suggestions
to take visitors on a memorable trip across time—from
the primordial swamps to the 21st Century Casino attractions.
Vicksburg
Perhaps the most renowned historical city in Mississippi,
Vicksburg offers many opportunities to explore life in
Antebellum, war-time and reconstruction Mississippi. It
seems every visit must include the National Military Park.
This can take half an hour for a quick drive through,
or several days of thorough investigation. At press time
the Cairo Gunboat and Museum was closed, but should be
opened in the next few months. For details call the Gunboat
Museum at 601-636-2199 or the Park at 601-636-0583 or
go to www.nps.gov/vick/.
For architecture buffs, Vicksburg offers an amazing array
of historic structures and homes, among them The Duff
Green Mansion (circa 1856) at 1114 First East Street;
Cedar Grove Mansion-Inn (1840-1858) at 2200 Oak Street;
and Annabelle (circa 1868) at 501 Speed Street.
There are more than can be mentioned. For more information
go to www.vicksburgcvb.org/homes.htm or call 601-636-9421
or Toll Free 1-800-221-3536.
If the weather’s nice, pick up a bag of Solly’s
Hot Tamales on Washington Avenue. (601-636-2020) It’s
not an “eat-in” place. Just along Washington
Avenue you’ll find a city-run park—Riverfront
Park, no less—and that’s a great place to
picnic outdoors. Enjoy!
Bentonia
For blues fans, Bentonia was the home of Jack Owens. Be
sure to try the Blue Front Café. In the Blue Front
Café, you may run into some of today’s blues
artists who live in the area.
Yazoo City
After lunch in Bentonia, head on up to Yazoo City. Visitors
can take the Yazoo Historical District’s Walking
Tour to work off lunch. Call 800-381-0662 for a free brochure.
Other places to visit in the Yazoo City area include the
Oakes African American Cultural Center, located in the
former home of Yazoo City educator AJ Oakes. Now restored,
this center highlights the lives and accomplishments of
many prominent Mississippi Blacks who succeeded despite
adverse social and economic conditions.
Also check out the Casey Jones Museum State Park, which
commemorates the source of the legend behind the “Ballad
of Casey Jones.”
While in the area, visit Greg Harkins’ Woodworks
in Vaughn, where craftsman Harkins uses centuries’
old techniques to create very high quality chairs for
clients such as the living US Presidents and the Pope.
Toward dusk, but not too late, return to Yazoo City and
locate the Glenwood Cemetery to find the Witch’s
Grave. For best affect, go to www.yazoo.org/Wtchgrav.htm
and print out a copy of the legend of the Witch for reading
aloud in the fading afternoon light.
Belzoni
Proudly claiming to be the “Catfish Capital of the
World,” the small town of Belzoni is about more
than the pond-raised fish.
One of the most unique museums in the state is the Ethel
Wright Mohamed Stichery Museum—also known as “Mama’s
Dream World.” Considered the “Grandma Moses”
of stitchery, Mohamed used colorful textile arts to create
“memory pictures” of the story of her life
and the lives of those around her. Her work has become
a part of the Smithsonian National Museum collection and
has been exhibited around the world. The museum is located
at 307 Central. Visitors may also want to make an appointment
with Mohamed’s daughter, Carol by calling 662-247-1433
or going to www.mamasdreamworld.com.
Another Belzoni site to visit is Wister Gardens, north
of Belzoni on Highway 7. The botanical collections include
azaleas, flowering fruit trees, hundred of roses, day
lilies, and crape myrtles—there is always something
in bloom from early spring to late fall. There is also
a 4-acre lake, complete with beautiful swans.
After enjoying some catfish here, stop by the Catfish
Institute for some recipes to try at home. (800-408-4838)
Greenwood
This jewel of a southern city is a place where cotton
is king.
After taking in downtown—a national historic district—visit
the Cottonlandia Museum to get an overview of the crop’s
impact on the region. Then visit Florewood—a time
capsule of Delta life on a plantation in the 1850s.
Be sure to go back downtown to the Greenwood Blues Heritage
Museum and become an expert on Robert Johnson. As a side
trip, ask for directions to the three sites that purport
to be Johnson’s final resting place.
For something a little off the beaten path, visit Bill
Hony’s Prayer Museum at 611 West Market Street.
Visitor’s must make an appointment, to get a personal
tour of his extensive collection of religious artifacts.
For evening dining in Greenwood, Lusco’s is a great
place to take out-of-towners and amaze them with the story
of its beginnings as a speak easy in the 30s. It’s
been family owned and operated since that time. Plan ahead
and request one of their famous curtained booths. A most
uniquely Mississippi restaurant.
Grenada
Grenada is a good place to enjoy morning walking and driving
tours. The Grenada Tourism Commission (800-373-2571) can
provide informational brochures.
Among the historic buildings and homes, be sure to visit
the Golladay House and learn of its important role during
the Civil War and its mysterious tragedy.
To add to the drama of Grenada’s past, also visit
the historic Confederate Cemetery and the Yellow Fever
Cemetery.
If time permits the 36,000-acre Grenada Lake can be an
exciting destination itself. Created by the US Corp of
Engineers in 1954, the lake offers almost 150 miles of
shoreline for camping, fishing and boating. The Grenada
Lake Visitor Center can provide a wealth of information,
as well as a multi-media presentation of the dam project.
Tunica
From Grenada, head up North for an afternoon in Tunica’s
restored historic downtown. If you want a meal from a
restaurant local frequent, stop at the Blue and White
Café out on the highway first.
Daytime activities in Tunica rival the lure of the world-class
casinos what make Tunica the nation’s third most
popular gaming destination.
Beginning in Summer 2003 the Tunica RiverPark will allow
visitors to learn all about the Mississippi River. More
water-based activities can be found at Tunica Lake. Www.tunicalake.com
will help you locate a lake guide for a memorable fishing
experience.
For golfers, there are currently two golf courses, with
a soon-to-be-completed Tunica National Golf & Tennis
Complex scheduled for a Fall 2003 opening. Thus, golfers
of all levels will find a course to challenge their skill
at the game.
For the shopping inclined, there are an assortment of
locally owned boutiques downtown, as well as some of the
best outlet shopping in the state. So be sure to allocate
time and money accordingly.
By evening, the siren song of the casinos will be luring,
so be sure to indulge thirst for excitement. And if gaming
isn’t your style, consider taking in some of the
top quality shows. In the Horseshoe Casino onee will find
an interesting museum/night club hybrid—so your
love of the blues, country and rock music will have you
browsing the extensive collection of memorabilia.
Friar’s Point
South of Tunica turn off of Highway 61 and go west to
the quaint town of Friar’s Point for a stroll on
the Levee that will provide an impressive view of the
Mississippi River. Birthplace of the late Conway Twitty,
Friar’s Point is home to the North Delta Museum,
a small but interesting collection of Delta artifacts.
Clarksdale
After leaving Friar’s Point, continue south to Clarksdale.
Expect to take some time absorbing the many facets of
this Delta town.
In fact—why don’t you plan to spend the night?
Two of the more interesting places to spend the night
are the Shack Up Inn and the Riverside Hotel.
At the Shack Up Inn—which calls itself a “B&B”
meaning “bed” and “beer”—you
are the guest in one of the six tenant shacks—complete
with rusty corrugated tin roofs anchored by old tires.
Each shack has its own distinctive features. Never fear,
though; there is air conditioning.
For the more adventurous, try to see if you can get the
Riverside Hotel on Sunflower Avenue. Once a African-American
hospital, in 1944 it was converted to a boarding house
and hotel. You’ll have the chance to sleep in rooms
where blues greats snoozed. It’s “modest,”
not opulent. Expect communal bathrooms.
One of your first stops should be “Blues Alley”
made up of a transformed train passenger depot and a freight
depot. The freight depot is now home to the Delta Blues
Museum. In the passenger depot you’ll find retail
shops. Look for Ground Zero Blues Club, too.
Authentic juke joints come and go, so it’s hard
to recommend a specific place. One way to find out what’s
happening in the music scene is to read those posters
you see plastered on telephone poles. Also—ask the
docents at the Delta Blues Museum where the action is—they’ll
have some tips. One long-standing good juke joint is on
Sunflower Avenue—Sarah’s Kitchen.
Clarksdale is the crossroads of the two major blues thoroughfares—US
61 and US 49. For those interested, this is the place
where blues great Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul
to the devil.
If you need time to ponder that idea, stop off at Abe’s
Bar-be-Que. It’s frequented by locals who know good
food.
For a look at a pivotal moment in Delta agriculture, visit
Hopson Plantation Commissary on US 49S. This is the plantation
with the first all mechanically harvested cotton crop.
With this advance, in 1944, one machine could replace
50 field hands.
If a Tennessee Williams fan, you can celebrate the trip
to his childhood home by visiting the Moon Lake Club—now
known as Uncle Henry’s Place. This former casino
served as a backdrop to some of Williams’ works,
including The Glass Menagerie and A Streetcar Named Desire.
It’s also a bed and breakfast where visitors are
pampered guests.
To get to Uncle Henry’s on Moon Lake, head North
on 61 then turn onto US 49 as if you were going to Helena,
AR. Moon Lake Road will be on your left. (662-337-2757)
Morgan Freeman is a Clarksdale native and has partnered
with associates to create two very different establishments.
First is Madidi—a posh, upscale dining experience.
(Reservations recommended.) Freeman’s other restaurant
is Ground Zero Blues Club. Taking its name from its address
at 0 Blues Alley, Ground Zero features performances by
notable blues musicians as well as a house band. In addition
to serving up great music, you will also find a variety
of plate dinner, sandwiches and salads. (662-621-9009)
If by now one more plate of catfish is just too much,
try Clarksdale’s Rest Haven. The American/Italian/Lebanese
restaurant is sure to please an entire party. Hint: Where
else in the Delta can you get Kibbie and Cabbage Rolls?
Mound Bayou
After exploring Clarksdale, head south on US 61 toward
Cleveland. But before arriving in Cleveland, consider
a few worthy side trips.
First, visit Mound Bayou—the oldest town in America
founded by former slaves. It was founded in 1887 by Isaiah
T. Montgomery and Benjamin T. Green. Montgomery’s
home still stands.
If pottery piques your interest, be sure to visit Peter’s
Pottery—the artisans at Peter’s are the only
ones in the world using Bayou Blue clay-thus any purchase
you make will be uniquely Mississippian.
Merigold
Further South on US 61 lives pottery legends Lee and Pup
McCarty. In addition to the pottery, a visit through the
artists’ garden rooms is an enchanting experience.
You’ll never utter an unkind word about bamboo once
you’ve seen it as an artist has cultivated it.
The nearby Gallery Restaurant is another McCarty endeavor.
Here you can have lunch (only) served on dinnerware straight
from the pottery studio.
Rosedale
To the West of Cleveland—along State Road 8—you’ll
find the town of Rosedale nestled right up against the
mighty Mississippi River. Rosedale, to this day, is a
busy Mississippi port town. To fully appreciate the river,
be sure to cross the levee to the Great River Road State
park where the view from the 75-foot high observation
tower is wonderful. For lunching options, consider the
White Front Café—for some hot tamales reputed
to be the best in the Delta. (Just don’t say this
around Vicksburg—home of Solly’s Hot Tamales.)
Cleveland
Cleveland has been recognized as one of the 100 best small
towns in America, and you see why as soon as you arrive.
Home of Delta State University, Cleveland offers a variety
of cultural opportunities rarely found in a town its size.
For a scholarly look at the culture of the blues and the
Delta, be sure to visit the Delta Center for Culture and
Learning located on DSU campus. This center has as its
mission the study and chronicling of Delta culture and
the promotion of a broad understanding of the history
of the region.
Cleveland’s Cotton Row is now the Historic Crosstie
Shopping District offering a diverse selection of retail
shops. It’s a lovely place to simply stroll its
walking trail, pausing at strategically placed seats along
they way. Be sure to take a camera to capture the beauty
of the original architecture that lends old-fashioned
southern ambience.
For dining, go upscale with KCs (662-843-5301), or enjoy
simpler fare at places like the Warehouse or the Airport
Grocery.
Indianola
If interested in B.B. King, be sure to stop in Indianola,
his hometown. Call the Chamber of Commerce, and they’ll
set you up with a points of interest brochure that will
guide you through some of the daily scenes in the life
of B.B. King. You’ll see the blues King’s
footprints at the corner of 2nd Street and Church Street—a
spot where he played his guitar to earn money, as well
as other notable sites.
In the downtown area, be sure to admire the 1900s styled
buildings—beautifully preserved—right along
the Indian Bayou, a meandering bayou that lends a park-like
air to the town center.
Leland
Who wouldn’t want to pay homage to the creator of
Kermit the Frog? The Jim Henson Exhibit is housed in the
Washington County Tourist Center/Leland Chamber of Commerce
in Leland. (662-686-2687)
The exhibit is, fittingly enough, located on the Deer
Creek, and shows a delightful depiction of Kermit’s
“birth” on the Deer Creek. There are also
photos from the Henson family, a video center with samples
of Henson’s early work and a Muppet memorabilia
room.
For those on a blues pilgrimage, be sure to visit the
Highway 61 Blues Museum in Leland. (662-686-7646 or www.highway61blues.com)
It’s located in Leland’s Old Temple Theater
on Broad Street (known as Old Highway 61) and houses displays
of blues memorabilia, artifacts and news clippings relating
to the Delta’s rich blues history.
Greenville
Once in Greenville, be sure to acquire a copy of the “Historic
Downtown Greenville” tour guide, which details fascinating
stops in an easy walking tour. Pick up a copy at the River
Road Queen and Welcome Center—it can’t be
missed—it’s the Victorian Riverboat on Highway
82 at Reed Road.
Be sure to visit the Mississippi River Levee—the
“Great Wall” of Mississippi built after the
catastrophic 1927 Delta flood. (Sadly there is no longer
a museum in Greenville dedicated to the 1927 flood, but
stay tuned: plans are in the works for one.)
For any children along for the ride, be sure to let them
have some fun at the Old Number One Firehouse Museum.
Here children cannot only view the wondrous machines—they
can also dress up in firefighter costumes and have some
hands-on time in the fire engines, too. For more information,
simply call City Hall at (662-378-1501)
For an outdoors destination, try out Warfield Point Park
on Highway 82 West. Here you’ll find an observation
tower that offers a spectacular view of the Mississippi
River and its river traffic. The steps up the three-story
structure are well worth the view. For a more heart-rending
view, go visit the ruins of St. John’s Episcopal
Church near Mount Holly. Abandoned after the Civil War,
it was hit by a tornado in 1907. The silent ruins—surrounded
by a 1800s cemetery—give pause to today’s
visitors.
Greenville is also rich in literary tradition. To get
an overview of some of the many notable writers who’ve
called Greenville home, take in the Greenville Writers
Exhibit. It’s located within the William Alexander
Percy Memorial Library at 341 Main Street.
Winterville Indian Mounds
North of Greenville is one of North America’s most
important archeological sites—Winterville Indian
Mounds and Museum. It includes 15 Indian mounds, including
one an astonishing six stories tall. The site’s
museum contains exhibits of what is known about the “Lost
Tribe of Winterville.” (662-334-4684)
State Road 1
For an experience possible only in the Delta, consider
taking a late afternoon drive along State Road 1. The
section from Greenville south is especially picturesque.
If driving on a clear day, at sunset, the red sky will
silhouette the trees along the levee in a way that can
only be described as magnificent. Perhaps more than anything,
the lonesome feel of a deserted stretch of road in the
forgotten Mississippi Delta infers the essential element
of Delta living. You can almost hear the birth of the
blues. DBJ
(In our next issue, the DBJ will talk
with regional tourist leaders about the future of Delta
tourism and current economic information.)
